 The Daunting Mojave Desert
 Tehachapi Pass  Golden sunset!
 First rainbow
sighting of the trip!
 Diversity:
from desert scrub to grassy
pastures...  ...and into a
cool, shady pine forest which
provides relief from the heat (the ground cover is a profusion of edible miners' lettuce)  For a day, we
walk through a land
blessed with running water  Fine example
of a Joshua Tree
 Meeting Terry
Thistlethwaite of Checkia
Dog Rescue on Walker Pass |
PROGRESS MAP
 << Previous Update Next Update >> Most Recent Update Segments 9 + 10: Soledad Canyon Road to Tehachapi Pass Tehachapi Pass to Walker Pass Segment
9 began by saying good-bye to our friend, Scott, as he dropped us off
back on Soledad Canyon Road. Although Banner and I were both well
rested (and well fed!), our first day back on the trail with full packs
in the relentless heat of the lowlands which we had now entered was a
trial. In addition, my mind was burdened with a difficult
decision which I would soon need to make. Although weather
reports in Santa Monica claimed that the record breaking California
heat wave was now releasing its grip on the region, here in Soledad
Canyon that did not seem to be the case. Temperatures during the
middle of the day continued to be much hotter than I had anticipated
for this time of year, and I was constantly worried about Banner's
condition, although he gave every indication of doing just fine.
However, this next segment, Segment 9, happens to be the most feared
section of the PCT: the Mojave Desert. Because of a huge,
sprawling ranch (the Tejon Ranch) that straddles the mountain ranges
linking the southern California transverse ranges (the San Bernardinos
and San Gabriels) to the Sierra Nevada, the PCT here was not able to be
constructed as a true "crest" trail. After many years of legal
wrangling, the owners of the ranch refused to grant a right of way to
build a trail along the crest of the mountains. As a result, the
PCT must wander out into the flat, waterless expanse of the
Mojave. This section is known for its scorching heat and a
regular topic of discussion among PCT hikers is how much water to carry
when entering this segment and what kind of containers to carry it in.
The decision I needed to make was whether or not to brave the Mojave Desert with Banner. If I had been by myself, I would not have hesitated to take on this section. However, I just couldn't bear the thought of something happening to Banner...visions of heat stroke and sore paws danced through my head. If it weren't for this darn unseasonable heat! At least I knew that if I decided to skip the Mojave section, it would not be difficult to find transportation to the beginning of the next segment. Before setting out on this trip, I had communicated via email with a couple, Jeff and Donna Saufley, who live in the small desert town of Agua Dulce. The Saufleys provide an amazing service to PCT hikers during the hiking season...it's known as "Hiker Heaven" and now that I have visited it I would have to say the name is apt. Out of the goodness of their hearts, the Saufleys have set aside an entire trailer on their lovely property for the exclusive use of PCT hikers. And this is not just some run down shack of a trailer. It is PLUSH, especially for someone who has been on the trail a while. There is a full kitchen stocked with all of the appliances, utensils, plates, pots, etc. that one might need. There is an internet computer. A family room with comfy counches, stereo system, and television with a small library of VHS movies. A bathroom with shower, and two bedrooms with an assortment of beds and blankets. To one who has not spent days and days in the outdoors, all of these might seem like simple, everyday conveniences--no big deal--but hikers tend to quickly develop a profound appreciation for simple objects and pleasures that most people take for granted. Jeff and Donna will even let hikers borrow their car for trips to local retaurants and supermarkets! The Saufleys had assured me through email that if I needed a shuttle from Agua Dulce to the beginning of the next segment of the PCT they would be more than happy to oblige. I arrived at the Saufleys' residence late that first afternoon, and after a quick tour of the grounds and trailer, I was informed that I had earned the distinction of being the earliest through-hiker ever to stay at Hiker Heaven. I knew now that there was little chance of there being any other hikers ahead of me. As I was the only guest that evening, Jeff and Donna invited me and Banner to join them for dinner. It was a wonderful meal and great conversation, something that has been lacking on our hike thus far due to our early March start. In the end, I decided to opt for the conservative option and asked if the Saufleys would be able to drive me to the town of Mojave from which I would begin Segment 10, Tehachapi Pass to Walker Pass. Of course it was disappointing to have to skip the Mojave, but when I considered again what it might have been like for Banner with the continued heat, I was not too disappointed. The next segment would take us back up into the mountains where I hoped it would once again be cooler. Segment
10: Tehachapi
Pass to Walker Pass
My decision to bypass the Mojave was quickly justified on the first day of Segment 10. As we climbed from Tehachapi Pass back up into mountainous, though still desert, terrain, it felt as if we were literally fleeing from the Mojave's unrelenting heat. Even as we climbed higher and higher into what some consider the farthest southern foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountains, the heat pursued us for 16 miles until we reached our first water source, Golden Oak Spring, under the merciful cover of oak trees. This segment was remarkable for the fact that it was so unremarkable. And I mean this in a very positive sense. After enduring the stresses of previous segments, this segment went extremely smoothly by comparison. The most positive aspect of this segment was Banner's performance. He seems to have passed a sort of threshold: he didn't need to wear his booties at all, so his pads seem to have toughened enough finally to endure the grit and gravel of this desert trail. And he is full of energy and enthusiasm, even more so than in previous segments. Now instead of groaning and curling into a ball when I climb out of the sleeping bag in the morning, Banner is up immediately exploring around the campsite while I prepare breakfast. He is wise enough to seek shade and lie down at every rest stop, but all I have to do is say, "Ready?" and he bounces to his feet prepared to continue along the trail. At night, I now have to use the 25-foot tie-out Banner carries because he no longer wants to go right to sleep upon reaching our campsite but would rather explore the surrounding territory. He is really coming into his own as a trail dog and this is a joy to witness. The mountainous terrain of the Tehachapi mountains here continued to be lovely, but one would have to say not quite as spectacular as the San Bernardinos and San Gabriels which I had just left behind, and certainly not nearly as spectacular as the upcoming Sierra Nevada will be. And yet the simple beauty and diversity of this short segment was endearing. After our first toasty day, a pattern of afternoon cloud buildup developed with some scattered sprinkles of rain and peals of thunder. This kept mid day temperatures considerably cooler and for this I was grateful. During the latter half of our second day we reached a shady pine and oak forest, its floor blanketed by a verdant blanket of edible miners' lettuce. On our third day we transitioned into a land of granite, hallmark of the Sierra Nevada mountains, as the trail turned to crushed granite sand and gravel and large granite boulders lined our path. The forest continued as we descended gently into a land blessed with running water, something we had not seen for many days. We had a few close encounters with off-road vehicle users (motorcycles) but it seemed that for the most part these users were good about staying off the PCT and sticking to designated off-road vehicle trails. It was a bit noisy at times, however. Our final day once again traversed a harsh desert terrain before reaching Walker Pass. Now I am writing from the Walker Pass Campground, just off Highway 178 where it crosses the very southern end of the mighty Sierra Nevada range. Although we are still in desert terrain, surrounded by sagebrush and pinyon pine, the mountains to our north are now composed of the fine Sierra granite that I know so well. At the ridgecrests this salt-and-pepper colored rock outcrops in sharp serrated fins and impressive spires, but these few features here, however lovely, are but a pale shadow of the jagged wonderland of rock we will soon find in the Sierra Nevada, about 100 miles north and 5000 feet higher in elevation. Tonight is my last night to be alone. Day 29 of hiking and every step of the way thus far has just been me and my dog surrounded by the silence of the desert landscape. True, we have seen others on the trail, but I can probably count the total number of other hikers (both day hikers and long distance hikers) we have seen on my fingers and toes, and interactions with these folks lasted no more than a few minutes. We have certainly camped alone every night thus far. Tomorrow, however, will be a big day. We will be picked up by Terry Thislethwaite who runs Checkia Dog Rescue in Ridgecrest, CA (our first "Sponsoring Shelter" en route!). She will transport us to Ridgecrest where we plan to meet my good friend, Matt Blakeley-Smith, who will be with us for the next month as we traverse the Sierra Nevada, mostly on skis! We will no longer be alone, and I am very much looking forward to the human companionship! |